Steering System Rescue
2. Just Say “No”
The hillbilly method of “fixing” a steering box is to grab a couple wrenches and crank away on the sector shaft adjustment to tighten the gears’ mesh. This is what’s called a no good, very bad idea.
“I have a rule,” says Chip Woyner of Power Steering Services (Power Steering Services, Inc., 2347 E. Kearney St., Springfield, MO 65803 (417) 864-6676 www.powersteering.com), the most accomplished steering specialist we know. “Don’t adjust it. If you feel it needs adjusting, the box probably needs rebuilding.” Ambitious do-it-yourselfers almost always do more harm than good. The lash, or clearance between the gears, is critical, and is actually engineered to be zero with the box in the center position. As the gears move, the lash opens up. Overtightening by shadetree mechanics will cause a cornucopia of dangerous maladies, including slow or no return to center, and greatly accelerated wear of the machined gear surfaces. Chip, one of the most experienced steering box men in the country, will not attempt to adjust lash with the box on the car. He insists on adjusting them on a workbench to get them right. Hence, we recommend farming this job out to a qualified shop as part of a larger refurb.
3. Bolt On
These three bolts secure your steering box to the frame. It doesn’t happen often, but they can work loose. The telltale symptom is heavy clunking going over bumps or when turning the steering wheel quickly. They don’t have to be very loose to cause major problems. Your shop manual will give you the correct torque spec. Make sure the threads are clean but not lubed to get a proper torque reading.
4. Hey, What Kind of Joint Is This?
With the steering box now sorted out, we move else throughout the system in search of slop.
Here’s what stands between your steering wheel and your steering box — a flexible rubber joint that’s plenty vulnerable to normal wear and breakdown from heat, grease and other harsh underhood chemicals. They get stiff and brittle with age, then the holes begin to waller out. You need a new one. Torque to spec as per your shop manual, including the pinch bolt.
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